Sehlabathebe National Park: A Weekend Escape into Lesotho’s Wilderness

Two weeks into life at my permanent site, I’m slowly finding my rhythm. Work at the clinic has been a mix of shadowing and learning the ropes in reception, pharmacy, and outreach. My coworkers and supervisor have been incredibly kind and welcoming, which has made the transition smoother. Still, adjusting to the slower pace of life here has been the biggest challenge. After three months of pre-service training (PST) with schedules planned down to the minute, going from full speed to a leisurely 20 mph has been a shock to my system.

My host mother has been a true blessing—gentle, kind, and always ready to help without intruding on my space. When I discovered I needed a propane tank (and hadn’t yet bought one), she graciously lent me hers for the first week and a half. Her generosity and patience have made settling in so much easier.

To break up the monotony, I decided to visit my fellow volunteer and friend, Isabel, at her site near Sehlabathebe National Park (Se-hlah-bah-teh-beh). Fun fact: my host mother gave me a new Sesotho name, Rethabile (meaning “we are happy”), and coincidentally, Isabel’s Sesotho name is also Rethabile. So, the two Rethabiles set out for a weekend camping adventure!

Arrival at Sehlabathebe

The journey to Isabel’s site took about an hour and fifteen minutes by taxi. The drive was stunning—winding mountain roads, cloud banks, and sprawling farmland unfolded before me like a scenic postcard.

Isabel’s host father, a former park employee of over 30 years, shared invaluable tips about where to camp and the best hiking routes. That afternoon, Isabel’s supervisor kindly drove us to the park and even lent us a brand-new tent. As a seasoned camper (thanks, Mom and Dad!), I handled the setup. We chose a spot sheltered by buildings to shield ourselves from the wind.

With no way to heat food, we relied on simple provisions: canned beans, nuts, dried fruit, homemade stovetop chocolate chip cookies, and chips—all purchased at Isabel’s village before heading out.

A Hike to Remember

The next morning, after a breakfast of cold beans, we set off for our hike. Our goal was to explore the former lodge and the rock arches the park is famous for. Starting just before 8 a.m., we followed a gravel trail through rolling green hills, surrounded by towering cliffs and vast open spaces. It felt like stepping into Jurassic Park—no signs of modern life, only the songs of unfamiliar birds and the gentle rustling of tall grasses.

The weather was perfect: sunny and clear, a rare blessing in an area known for rain and mist. We reached the old lodge, an abandoned building from the park’s early days, and then followed a sign pointing to the “rock arches.”

The trail led us through meadows dotted with enormous rock formations, some as big as houses. These monolithic sculptures seemed otherworldly, as if they had tumbled from the sky. We passed shimmering rock pools, where a pair of ducks and a great grey heron quietly went about their day.

Then came the arches—breathtakingly massive and seemingly carved by nature’s hand. One double arch left us speechless, and another formed an almost perfect circle, framing the majestic mountains in the background. The beauty and tranquility of this untouched landscape were awe-inspiring.

Around mile six or seven, we decided to head back. Just as we were about to peek inside the old lodge, thunder rumbled in the distance. With no shelter nearby, we quickly turned back to avoid getting caught in a storm.

Rest and Recovery

By the time we returned to our campsite around 2 p.m., we were both utterly exhausted. Every muscle in my body ached, and all I could do was slump into the tent. The park had showers, but as Isabel warned me, there was no hot water. Even so, a cold shower felt like a small victory after the long hike.

That night, I slept like a rock, lulled by the sounds of the wind and distant bird calls.

Saying Goodbye

The next day, we returned to Isabel’s site, where I met her host family and toured her clinic. It was fascinating to compare notes on our work and see how her site differed from mine. After spending a bit more time together, I reluctantly headed back to my site, already looking forward to our next adventure.

Plans for the Future

Our trip to Sehlabathebe was unforgettable—a perfect escape into the wild beauty of Lesotho. There’s still so much to explore in the park, including a trail that leads to waterfalls. I can’t wait to return and see more of this incredible World Heritage Site.

For now, it’s back to clinic life and settling into my routine. But the memories of Sehlabathebe will carry me through until the next adventure calls.